Inspecting a used car

Always inspect a used car thoroughly before taking it to a qualified mechanic for a final inspection. There is a great deal you can learn about a used car by systematically and patiently looking it over. If you can find some of the problems yourself, you can save a great deal of time. If you find some areas of concern on this used car, point them out to your qualified mechanic during the final inspection. It is much less expensive to discover problems now than on some rainy night in a place you would really like to leave. You don't have to be a car expert to save yourself money and aggravation.

THINGS YOU WILL NEED

• Paper towels

• Hand cleaner

• Magnet

• Flashlight

• Small mirror

• VIN (vehicle identification number)

• www.autocheck.com Vehicle History Report

• Small section of the newspaper (to help detect oil leaks)

• Cell phone and the number of your local dealer for this type of vehicle

• This list and a pen to check things off and make notes

Inspect your own car for practice. This will do two things:

1. You will have something to compare your observations to.

2. You will look like you know what you are doing, putting you in a stronger negotiating position.

USED CAR INSPECTION STEP #1 - SETTING UP THE INSPECTION
Get the VIN from the used car listing or call the owner and ask for it. If they are uneasy about letting you run a vehicle history report, be wary of the seller's honesty. Dealerships run this report if you want to trade your used car in. The VIN number is conveniently located on the sellers insurance card, which most states require be carried in your wallet.

Go to www.autocheck.com to view the Vehicle History Report, select an AutoCheck report purchase option. The Unlimited report will save you money since you will probably want to check several used cars. This report will tell you about problems the used car has encountered which may include odometer rollback, salvage, rental usage, police vehicle usage, stolen, or other problems with the used car's history. If the used car has a serious problem, consider moving on to the next one on your list, or continue to search see Buyer's Marketplace section.

Used Car Inspection Step #2 - Talk with the Owner

Talk to the owner, ask:

• How long have they owned the car?

• How often have they changed the oil? Where was it changed?

• Do they have records for maintenance and service?

• Has it ever been damaged or flooded?

• Why are they selling the vehicle?

• Are there any problems?

• Has it had any major maintenance beyond muffler, brakes, tires, batteries and oil changes? How long has it been since these items were replaced?

• Was the car kept in a garage?

Ask yourself: Can I live with those answers?
Ask yourself: Do I believe / trust what this person / stranger is telling me?

Used Car Inspection Step #3 - Cold Engine Check

Open the hood on the used car before you get in. Make sure the engine is cool (from sitting overnight). The first start of the day is critical to spotting oil usage and other problems. You should assume the seller knows this. Therefore, if it has been started, it may have the problems that are more obvious on the first start of the day.

Check:

• Oil level. Some people are much better than others about keeping their fluid levels correct. Look at the color, if it is milky, consider thanking the seller and leaving. This is an expensive problem; a significant percentage of the value of a used car is the engine. If it is black and dirty (or worse, gritty), the oil is old and / or the car has been driven hard.

• Remove the cap where you add engine oil, and use your flashlight to note the condition of the inside of the engine. A well oiled machine will look clean and not have a "burned on" look.

• Step back and look at the engine overall to see if it looks like things have been replaced. You can tell if some parts are quite a bit cleaner than others. If the engine is either dirtier or cleaner than the parts around it, it may have been replaced. If it has, and you have not been told, suspect the worst. Alternators and water pumps are commonly replaced around 80,000 miles.

• Look at the fit and finish in general. Are there crumpled spots, or any other evidence of an accident? Use your magnet to make sure the car is metal and not Bondo which is used to replace rusted out or damaged areas.

• Look at the door hinges for condition. They are often damaged in accidents and the welds (required for repair) look different. Also, look at the door hinge area to see if the car has been repainted, you can often see overspray in hard to reach areas.

• Check the level of the transmission fluid. Automatic transmission fluid should be red (not brown) and should not smell burnt. A transmission problem can be expensive (start at about $1000) to fix.

• MAKE SURE THE ENGINE IS NOT HOT. Then check the engine coolant by removing the radiator cap. If the engine is hot, skip the test and assume the worst. It should be green (or perhaps red) but IT SHOULD NOT LOOK RUSTY. It should smell like chestnuts.

• Look at the container where you add Brake fluid. It should be marked and is generally on the driver side near the rear of the engine compartment. If it is low, it could be leaking, or the brake pads might need replacing. The further down the brakes are worn, the lower that level goes. Refilling the brake fluid is overlooked by most car owners.

• Look at the belts and hoses for cracks and signs of wear. Belts and hoses are less expensive than the other areas in this inspection, but are sometimes a good indication of how well maintained a vehicle is.

• Look under the car to see if it is leaking anything. Here is a Color Code of the Puddles:

  • Oil is black or golden brown like honey

  • Transmission fluid is red or sometimes brown

  • Coolant is usually yellow-green

  • Water sometimes drips from the Air Conditioning condenser, this is normal.(passenger side slightly forward of the dashboard)

• Walk around the car and note the condition, brand and size of the tires (size example: P215/70R-15). Are the tires all the same? If they are different, get an explanation. How much tread is left, are the tires worn evenly? Uneven wear could mean suspension / front end problems. A set of tires is fairly expensive (start at about $250, significantly more for sports cars). Front end problems start at about $500. If the tires have been replaced significantly before 40,000 miles, be suspicious, ask why.

• Pull and push on the top of each tire, you should not be able to make a clunking noise. If you do, you can assume that hundreds of dollars of suspension work (or more) is required.

• Look in the trunk. Does the car have a functional spare, jack and a lug wrench? How about the key for specialized lugs?

• Look under the mat in the trunk. Is it smooth? Evidence of a wreck or water damage is sometimes most evident under the trunk mat.

• Look down each side of the used car. Is it straight?

• Look underneath the used car for any waves in the frame. Has this car been bent and straightened out?

• Use your mirror and flashlight to look at the springs under the driver's seat to look for rust. If there is rust, the car has been exposed to water. Water damaged cars tend to have repeated and expensive problems.

• Look at the brake pedal for wear. Is the wear consistent with the odometer mileage? Heavy use of the brake often means the car has been driven hard.

Leave the hood open for the next step. Used Car Inspection Step #4 Start Engine

Stand behind the used car to observe the exhaust on startup. Have the seller start the cold engine. Watch for smoke from the exhaust pipe. Blue smoke is oil. Generally, this means the engine is worn, with possibly piston ring problems or valve guide seal problems. In practical terms, this means the engine will not last a long time. Engines are expensive. Excessive white smoke might mean coolant is leaking into your engine or exhaust, neither of these are good. It may have a strange smell because anti-freeze burning has a sweet foul smell. Oddly, it may be OK for a small amount of water to be dripping from the exhaust pipe. This is condensation collected within the exhaust system.

Now walk around to the front. Be careful not to get too close to the engine, in particular the moving parts. Do not wear loose items such as scarves or ties near a running engine. Keeping a safe distance, observe the engine running. It should be smooth and should not be smoking or dripping. Look underneath to confirm that it is not dripping. See Color Code of Puddles (above) to translate drips.

Used Car Inspection Step #5 - Before Moving Tests

Get in the used car and, without moving the vehicle, test the operation of these items:

• Adjustment of seat and seat belts

• Mirrors

• Windows and locks

• Turn signals, lights and brake lights

• Radio, CD player, etc.

• Windshield wipers

• Heat AND air conditioning

• Power roof (if installed)

• Brakes *

* Test the feel of the brake pedal, if it is mushy, that is a safety problem. DO NOT drive the vehicle. This probably means there is air in the brake lines, which is not expensive compared to engine or transmission problems. It may mean the master cylinder is bad or the brake lines are damaged. Used Car Inspection Step #6 - Test Drive

Remember that your most important task here is to return the vehicle safely. You are in an unfamiliar vehicle, use extra caution.

Turn off the radio, fans or any other noise making accessories. If possible, have the seller be quiet as well. Listen to the car as you pull out. You will need to drive under a variety of conditions. You will need to get on a highway and see how it handles at highway speed.

Things to notice:

• Engine should be smooth with no undue noise

• Transmission should shift smoothly without whirring, lurches or clunks

• Steering should be smooth and easy and not pull in any direction

• Drive next to a wall (sometimes medians have these) with the window down and listen to the car, you should only hear the tires and wind.

Return the car and let the owner drive, tell him to go around the block. Observe the car from the rear and front, be very careful of other traffic.

• Does the car track straight? In other words do the wheels line up when driving straight?

Judge these things critically against your expectations.

• Ask yourself if it is better or worse than your expectation?

• Is it better or worse than the car you practiced on, and other cars you've looked at?

Used Car Inspection Step #7 - After Drive

Get out your newspaper and lay it out under the engine. Watch for leaks. It is possible that the air conditioning condenser will drip water, if it was being used or if the window defoggers were in use. This is typically on the passenger side near the firewall (wall between engine and the seats) and the liquid will be clear and clean water. Any other drips should be viewed with suspicion.

Review this checklist and see if you missed something that you can look at now. Consider how this car has performed, and determine if you should proceed with negotiations or thank the seller for their time.

Used Car Inspection Step #8 - Price Of Repairs

Before making an offer, call your dealer and get prices on anything you suspect needs to be fixed. Also ask if the car is approaching a major maintenance milestone. Often at 80,000 to 90,000 miles it needs an engine timing belt/chain. This is several hundred dollars or more. Checks at 30,000 and 60,000 can also be expensive. Ask now, and don't worry if the seller hears you say "wow $3,500!!!" This will do wonders with your negotiations. But, you may not want to buy a car with the problems you found.

You now know this used car a lot better. If you are still interested in purchasing this used car, then set up an appointment with your qualified mechanic. Let him know what you found so that he can be sure to check it during their inspection.